Hills once again

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Santander De Quilichao was a typical, busy Colombian town. It had a market on the edge of town meaning that the road was super busy. All credit to Rachel for being brave enough to take her hands off the bars and capturing this photo that shows the chaos of roads in busy towns. Although it looks scary, it actually feels very safe to ride in. Nothing moves very quickly and everyone is alert to other road users on all sides.

Rachel had been on the lookout for a cycling cap in Colombian colours. We asked if they had one in the cycle shop near the casa ciclista near Medellín and they didn't. However they did gift her this one from their shop. 

Other sad news is that Rachel was taking off her prescription sunglasses while riding along recently. She dropped them and we rode over them. They didn't survive. Thus she was delighted when we rode past these natty numbers on the road the other day. From the build quality it is clear they are not genuine Oakley's but she is pleased to have some shades for free even if they are not prescription ones.

We knew the road out of Santander De Quilichao was going to be hilly and we had planned for a moderate day after our two big rides the previous days. Oh how the best laid plans can fall apart ...

The road undulated, with each climb slightly longer than each descent meaning an overall height gain. 

There was major construction work underway to build bridges over the ravines we were going into and climbing out of. We were wishing that they were finished.

The roadworks stopped the traffic every now and then meaning periods of heavy traffic followed by sections where we had the road to ourselves. There was some great views. 

I'm looking slightly deranged as my brain was overwhelmed by the taste sensation of the coconut ice lolly I'm eating. It was divine. Full of shredded coconut and only 20p. Perfect for keeping cool on a warm climb.

We have been on and off the Pan-American highway for a long time (since Central America) without really realising it. It was quite a reminder to pass this sign particularly with the outline of the American continents in the background. 

We had planned to camp at a place we had seen on iOverlander. However when we got there, it was locked and there was no one home. Grrr. 

This meant we needed a plan B. Our options were: a random hotel by the side of the road, or pushing on to reach Popayán. We opted for the latter with a vague idea that we would have a rest day there.

By the time we reached the outskirts we had done more climbing than on any other day and far more distance than on any day with comparable climbing. Thankfully the last few KMs were downhill. 

We arrived into Friday rush hour traffic and it started raining. While we were at this traffic light discussing which direction to go, a window slid open on the bus beside us and a guy with a smattering of English confirmed that we needed to go left. Just one of those things that happens when bike touring.

As it turned out Popayán was not that interesting. We decided that we didn't want a rest day there and satisfied ourselves with a ride-by sighting of the white buildings it is famous for. As we had foregone a rest day we decided not to set off until lunchtime and just to do a half day. Thus allowed lots of time for chilling out. 

The road south was great. Popayán is the last big town south until Pasto (much of Colombia's population is in the north). This meant the roads were much quieter. We loved the riding. There were views of distant hills and a lovely afternoon light. 

The ride involved a 400m drop into a valley and an equal climb up the other side before dropping again on the other side of the ridge.  The gradients were nice and steady which made the climb pleasant and the descents were superb as we could pick up a bit of speed. 

The views were incredible. 

We stayed for the night at a small finca that hosts passing travellers. It was set back from the road and super peaceful. We got a tour of the farm where they grow: limes, oranges, mangos, maize, beans, cacao, avocados, red and yellow peanuts, cassava, plantains and coffee. It was like a mini paradise. They also have prodigious quantities of biting insects. Thus we decided against a rest day there.

The search for a rest continues.

Google photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/p8J9ERd7iN2bGiZy9

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